It’s safe to say that everything about Andreas Kronthaler’s SS23 presentation at Paris Fashion Week was a performance since he is the creative director and design partner for Vivienne Westwood.
Following suit with Westwood’s theatrical persona, the showcase was held in a concert hall, with the models taking the stage one by one around a circular runway. Crocodile platform boots, gilded masks, and model du jour Bella Hadid were all part of the dramatic presentation of Kronthaler’s vision, which seemed to take influence from the Venetian Renaissance.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
I’ve always wanted a collection like this one. Vivienne didn’t understand, and I didn’t know how to explain it to her, so I simply did it. “When I stepped outside, I could have sworn I was in Paris; the sky alone made me want to be there,” Andreas Kronthaler said in a statement.
Although the collection’s brocades and silk jacquards were woven by an English silk weaver, the majority of the fabric came from deadstock (something Kronthaler has done since his beginnings at Westwood). “I love blending the modern with the classic. “Therefore, we use repurposed items from my own closets, such as old T-shirts, sweatshirts, vests, and underwear,” he says.
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SS23 was a significantly more romanticized collection from Westwood’s usual punk aesthetic, with several flowing dresses, translucent materials, and excellent draping. Kronthaler’s collection took Westwood into the new age of sex appeal, complete with cut-out chaps and exposed thongs, while yet being recognizably Westwood.